Izakaya (居酒屋) is Japan's greatest invention. Not a restaurant, not a bar — something in between. You sit down, order small dishes in a continuous stream, drink whatever you want, and stay as long as you like. The bill doesn't arrive until you ask for it. Nobody watches the clock. The izakaya is where real Tokyoites eat on a Tuesday evening after work — not in a tourist restaurant on Shinjuku's main drag. It's also usually half the price.
How to enter an izakaya
The door opens and you'll hear the shout: "Irasshaimase!" — welcome. Respond with a smile or a nod; no specific reply is expected. Staff will ask how many in your group (nan-mei sama desu ka?) and show you to a table. If you don't understand, just hold up fingers.
At the table you'll almost always find an oshibori — a damp towel for wiping your hands. Use it and set it aside. The first thing you order is a drink: "Toriaezu biiru" (a beer to start) is a classic phrase that always works even if you speak no other Japanese. Many places have picture menus — just point at what you want.
⚠️ Otoshi — mandatory starter
Most izakayas automatically bring a small starter — otoshi or tsukidashi. It costs ¥300–600 per person and cannot be refused. It's essentially a cover charge in food form. Don't be surprised to see it on the bill.
What to order — food
Order a little at a time, repeatedly — not everything at once like in the West. Portions are small and meant to share. A good start is edamame, then yakitori, and then expand from there based on what sounds good.
Edamame
枝豆
Salted soy beans in the pod. Order always — cheap, fast, perfect with beer.
~¥300
Yakitori
焼き鳥
Grilled chicken skewers. Tare (soy-glazed) or shio (salted) — start with tare. Order momo (thigh), tsukune (meatball) and negima (chicken + leek).
~¥150–200 / varras
Karaage
唐揚げ
Japanese fried chicken — juicier and crispier than any Western version. Squeeze lemon over it. Essential order.
~¥500
Agedashi tofu
揚げ出し豆腐
Fried tofu in dashi broth. Light, elegant, surprisingly good. Nice break between meatier dishes.
~¥400
Gyoza
餃子
Pan-fried filled dumplings. Dipping sauce is soy and rice vinegar — mix your own from the bottles on the table.
~¥400–500
Tamagoyaki
玉子焼き
Sweet rolled omelette. Surprisingly good for something so simple. Order if you see it on the menu.
~¥350
Niku-jaga
肉じゃが
Meat and potato stewed in sweet soy broth. Japanese home cooking — comfort food at its best.
~¥500
Dashimaki tamago
だし巻き卵
Omelette infused with dashi stock — softer and juicier than tamagoyaki. A reliable quality indicator.
~¥400
What to order — drinks
You drink more in an izakaya than in restaurants generally — it's part of the culture, not a problem. Nobody raises an eyebrow at a fourth drink. Here are the most common options explained.
Nama biiru
生ビール
Draft beer. Classic starter, almost always Sapporo, Asahi or Kirin. Order by saying "nama hitotsu" (one draft).
~¥500–700
Highball
ハイボール
Whisky + soda water. Japan's most popular bar drink. Light, more refreshing than beer, cheaper. If you're going for several rounds, this is the move.
~¥400–600
Chu-hai
チューハイ
Shōchū + soda + fruit juice. Low alcohol (3–9%), sweet, goes down easily. Good option if you don't like beer.
~¥400–500
Nihonshu / Sake
日本酒
Rice wine. Ask staff for a recommendation — say "osusume wa?" (what do you recommend?). Try it cold (hiyashu) first.
~¥500–800 / kuppi
Ume-shu
梅酒
Plum liqueur — sweet, light, very drinkable. Good opening drink or alternative if nothing else appeals. Often served on ice or with soda.
~¥400–600
Shōchū
焼酎
Japanese spirit — made from potato, barley or rice. Stronger than sake (~25%). Typically mixed with water or soda. End-of-evening drink.
~¥400–600
Etiquette — what to remember
There aren't many rules in an izakaya, but a few basics are worth knowing.
Etiquette in brief
Kanpai (乾杯): When drinks arrive, wait until everyone has their glass. Raise it and say "kanpai". Look people in the eyes, not down at the glass.
Don't pour for yourself: Pour for others, let others pour for you. If you want more, raise your empty glass toward your companion. They'll understand.
The bill: Ask by saying "okaikei onegaishimasu" or waving at staff. The bill usually comes on a tray — you pay at the register, not at the table.
Oshibori: Use it only for your face if you've been sweating outside. Indoors it's just for hands.
Noise level: You can speak loudly. Izakayas are noisy places — silence is not expected.
Chain or independent?
Torikizoku (鳥貴族) is the best chain izakaya for beginners — every yakitori skewer is ¥360, the menu is fully pictured, and staff are used to tourists. A good first izakaya experience. Watami and Kushikatsu Tanaka are also solid chain options, found in almost every neighbourhood.
Independent izakayas — recognisable by their banners, red lanterns, or charcoal smoke drifting onto the street — are often better. Food is more personal, atmosphere is tighter, price is often lower. They can intimidate first-timers because the menu may not be in English. Solution: open Google Translate's camera mode, point it at the menu, and see what comes up. It works better than you'd expect.
Where to find a good izakaya
Golden Gai, Shinjuku
ゴールデン街
200+ tiny bars and izakayas on six narrow alleys. Some seat only 6 people. Atmosphere is unmatched. Some are locals-only or require an introduction — look for an open door and see how it feels.
Evening 7 PM onwards
Hoppy Street, Asakusa
ホッピー通り
A row of retro izakayas with 1950s atmosphere. Plastic chairs, outdoor seating, cheap drinks, friendly hosts. The best afternoon izakaya in Tokyo.
Afternoon 3 PM–11 PM
Yurakucho Yakitori Alley
有楽町 高架下
Under the train tracks: a row of tiny yakitori joints. Trains rumble overhead, smoke fills the alleys. One of Tokyo's most authentic dinner experiences.
Weekdays 5 PM–11 PM
Shibuya Nonbei Yokocho
のんべい横丁
A small alley in Shibuya packed with tiny bars and izakayas. Less known than Golden Gai, calmer, more local crowd.
Evening 6 PM onwards
💡 Budget and practical tips
Budget: Count on ¥3,000–5,000 per person (around €18–30) for food and drinks combined. Chain izakayas are cheaper, ¥2,000–3,000.
Reservations: Evenings are worth booking ahead — use Tabelog app or Google the restaurant name + "reservation". Good spots fill fast on Friday and Saturday.
Tabelog: Japan's best restaurant review site. A score of 3.5+ is already excellent — the scale is strict.
Last orders: "Last order" is typically 30 minutes before closing. Staff will announce it — in English too. Don't order after this point.
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