What makes Shinjuku special? Shinjuku is a paradox. By day it's one of Asia's most efficient business districts — banks, offices and department stores drawing hundreds of thousands of office workers. By night the same area transforms completely: neon lights ignite, doors open, and the city's finest restaurants fill up. Shinjuku Station handles over 3.5 million passengers per day — more than all of Finland's rail traffic combined. The station has 53 platforms and 200 exits. Getting lost is almost guaranteed first time. It's part of the experience. Golden Gai — Japan's most extraordinary bar district Golden Gai is a world entirely its own. Six narrow alleys, roughly 200 micro-bars — the smallest fitting 5–8 people. Dating from the 1950s, the area somehow survived Tokyo's development boom and is now one of the city's most treasured cultural sites. Each bar has its own theme: books, jazz, visual kei, indie films, or simply the owner's personal music taste. A cover charge (カバーチャージ, kaba chāji) of ¥500–1,000 is the norm — perfectly standard in Japan, and usually includes a snack or sometimes the first drink. Kabukicho — entertainment and nightlife Kabukicho is Japan's largest entertainment district and one of Asia's most famous nightlife areas. Neon lights, host clubs, karaoke tower (Tokyu Kabukicho Tower), cinemas, and hundreds of restaurants from every corner of the world. For tourists it's completely safe — as long as you stick to the main streets. The new Tokyu Kabukicho Tower opened in 2023. It houses a hotel, cinema, karaoke rooms and a rooftop terrace — a spectacular way to see Shinjuku's neon sea from above. Where to eat in Shinjuku Shinjuku is a food paradise at every price point. A few particularly recommended spots: Shinjuku Gyoen — finding calm amid the chaos If Shinjuku feels overwhelming, Shinjuku Gyoen is one of the city's finest parks — 144 hectares of English, French and Japanese garden design. In spring during cherry blossoms it's the best hanami spot in Tokyo. Entry ¥500. Important note: alcohol is banned in Shinjuku Gyoen — unlike most other Tokyo hanami parks. This makes it calmer and more family-friendly than Ueno, for example. Viewpoints: Tokyo from above Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (free) Shinjuku's city hall offers a free observation deck at 202 metres. Open in the evenings too, and the view of Mount Fuji on clear days is priceless. The best value in all Tokyo — completely free. Park Hyatt Tokyo — the Lost in Translation hotel The New York Bar on the 52nd floor is cinematic history. A cocktail costs ¥2,500+ with ¥2,500 evening cover charge, but the view and atmosphere are unmatched. Dress code: smart casual.